With plans in place for the Sportsnet 2012 Gallipoli tour for ANZAC Day, I realise that we’re only 5 months away. After the 2011 trip, there is a LOT to look forward to with our new and improved experience. You’ll have to pop along to see them for yourself, but I can tell you…it’s a trip to remember. Here’s a snapshot of MY experience when our group together with one of Essendons’ favourite sons Jason Johnson made the pilgrimage Easter 2011. Whether you come with Sportsnet or not, I hope there’s something here that excites you to make the journey yourself!
Arrival in Ataturk airport is full on!
Tip 1. As tempting as it is to head straight to the passport control lines after a long flight, DON’T! Just past these lines there’s a counter with little signage but massive importance. The visa counter. USD30 per person for your entry visa and it’s just a rubber stamp. I took 6 passports to the counter, they just counted the passports, charged my credit card and waved me on. Job done. Once we lined up in the passport line it was like the red sea parting as the other Aussies realised they too needed a visa thus had to relinquish their place in line.
Istanbul, the 3rd most populated city in Europe (behind London and Moscow) smacks you right between the eyes with insane traffic, a mind boggling contrast of old and new, and some of the most friendly people on the planet. Our drive to the hotel from the airport included more frantic grabs for the ‘panic’ bars than usual but we made it and our little crew hit the hay pretty early after the long flight. Oh, a couple of beers of course…which is another story! 6 rounds, same drinks, same bar tender, same bar….TOTALLY different prices! All cheap mind you, the currency conversion is fantastic!
Day 1 was a highlight! Anyone thinking of joining us in 2012?
Aya Sofya - mind blowing!
Tip 2. Bring some super comfy walking shoes ‘cos you do not want to miss any of the sights today. I’m more about what appeals to my eye than history. More about the ‘what’ than the ‘when or why’. That said, the Blue Mosque, Aya Sofya, Royal Palace and Grand Bazaar are so much more impressive when you DO indeed know the history. The sheer size and precision involved in constructing this icons is a demonstration of workmanship that in my opinion should be a part of every building course on the planet. The rich and turbulent history that accompanies each and every point of our walking tour left me feeling enriched, a little smarter and certainly more humble. Win, win…..win.
Tip 3. Before you depart, buy a whole bunch of Nescafe instant cappuccino sachets. Ask at your local pub if you can hang out in their cool-room, then go about getting the taste buds used to the flavor of the powdered coffee combination! That oughtta do it. Trust me, unless you are prepared to do the Turkish coffee thing (Jason was up for 2 days after he had one!) this is what you’re going to have to get used to. I think by the time is was minus 2 degrees at Anzac Cove we truly thought it was the best coffee on earth!
The band prepping for a LONG night!
There were so many awesome components of our trip, it’s hard to pick any out. But day 2 was one that’s importance and significance we didn’t appreciate until it was done. 2 days before Anzac Day, we visited all the memorial sites, cemeteries and monuments. Why was this important? NOBODY else did it! At an empty Anzac Cove we heard the Australian Naval Band rehearse, and just stared across the water towards Imbros trying to contemplate what must have gone through the minds of our Anzac heroes.
Being there early. Eerie AND awesome!
At Lone Pine, Chunuk Bair and the trenches we were literally alone to soak up the emotion and history. I tell you, the wind whistling through the trenches and up the hill to Lone Pine as we were educated on the respective histories provided at least as many goose bumps as the Dawn Service itself. It was a privilege to be there in our small group and as I said, nobody else had the foresight to do this. Do yourself a favour and get down there early, you will not be disappointed.
Tip 4. Take a good book…or a footy. The day BEFORE the service, you will be milling about in a car-park with well over 100 coaches all waiting the opening of the road to Anzac Cove. We were there for almost 3 hours chatting to other Aussies and just hanging out. But once the road was open, it was helter-skelter! Every man for himself! You hit the road, go through 1 checkpoint, then line up for another checkpoint, receive your ‘gift-bag’ and without running (strictly forbidden) try and find the best vantage point on the lawn or grandstand.
Tip 5. Go for the grass. You will be here for well over 12 hours. To not be able to lay down overnight ‘cos you thought a seat was ‘a good idea at the time’ would be a rookie error.
Pre-sunset. All smiles enjoying the build-up.
There’s NO BOOZE allowed, which is brilliant! (though there’s always a couple of knuckle-heads with a distinct lack of respect who turn up pissed. Idiots!) Anyway, the catering is good and plentiful with more kebabs than you could point a bayonet at. It’s a carnival atmosphere early and right up till sunset and we had a great time meeting people from all over the place including heaps of expat Aussies now based in Europe looking for their ‘Ocka Fix’. Man did they get it.
Tip 6. Take layers! We were in t-shirts at 5pm but by midnight it was literally sub zero. Thankfully in 2012 Sportsnet will provide awesome sleeping bags and beanies, but on our first time we were caught a little unawares! To the Turkish dude with the big smile who robbed us blind for the ‘last’ two sleeping bags (I saw the car full later you bugger!) JJ and I WILL find you in 2012 haha! Well done and more fool us. IT. WAS. SO. COLD! 10,000 people, shoulder to shoulder on the ground, literally, and you still froze.
Talk about intimate! Loved it!
Tip 7. Check your requirement for personal space at the door. Props to the organisers though. Every ½ hour or so there was either a video, story, poem or song to help pass the time. For me, this was the most emotional part. Hearing the letters from these kids to their loved ones, often knowing they were about to go to their deaths??? Goosebumps the size of golf balls. As dawn broke, it was like 10,000 meerkat popping their heads up. Next thing you know, the 2011 Anzac Cove Dawn Service was done.
Tip 8. Manage your expectations. A Dawn Service is a Dawn Service. Be it your local RSL, Shrine of Remembrance or Anzac Cove, the same things are said, in the same order, for the same amount of time. It’s the LEAD-UP that makes the Cove different. The chance to stand where our Diggers stood. To look from the beach up the hill toward Lone Pine and think what it would’ve been like with literally hundreds of machine guns aimed at you and your mates. To try the impossible, to empathize. And to feel the unique patriotism experienced ONLY when Aussies are en masse abroad.
Once the service was done, Lone Pine too, we faced the final challenge. Waiting for the coach back to the hotel. With around 1,000 others, all running on max 3 hours sleep, we waited. And waited. The ‘system’ seemed to be…whatever order they’re parked in, they arrived. We were standing for an hour, dead tired but exhilarated. The jubilation was extreme when our bus number was called and we got out of there…
Tip 9. Expect to hear the result of the Essendon v Collingwood game at Lone Pine. It’s impossible to escape it with that many Aussies about. We will again watch the game back at the hotel, but by then it’s all a matter of perspective and trust me, knowing the result does not diminish the fun and excitement…or the thirst! (Jason Johnson lead the charge on that front.)
This is one trip that will live in my memory forever. It was something that was on my bucket list but not high. I can safely say however that it SHOULD indeed be on everyone’s ‘must do’ list. It is life changing and Turkey with a group, well, it’s nothing short of inspiring, hilarious, eye-opening, humbling and stunning. A final tip?
Tip 10. If you want to do it with like-minded people, with an AFL flavour and loads of laughs, get on board. I’ll be there again with Sportsnet, as will JJ and we cannot wait to see you there. You know where to find us!
See you right here in 2012. I assure you it's a life changing experience!
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